Plumbing jobs you can usually do yourself, and ones you probably shouldn’t

Some plumbing jobs are well within reach for a careful homeowner. Others are best left alone.

The difference matters. A simple washer, loose trap or blocked plughole can often be dealt with using basic tools and a bit of patience. A hidden leak, burst pipe, boiler issue or problem near electrics is a very different matter.

This guide is designed to help you make a sensible decision before you start. It covers the small plumbing jobs many people can usually do themselves, the jobs where you should call a professional, and the warning signs that mean you should stop rather than keep going.

If you are not sure what you are looking at, take a few photos and bring them into Collins Hardware. For small, visible plumbing jobs, we can often help you identify the part, washer, hose, connector, sealant or tool you need.

The golden rule: know how to turn the water off

Before attempting any plumbing job, make sure you know how to turn the water off.

For small jobs, there may be an isolation valve close to the fixture. These are often found under sinks, behind toilets or near appliance connections. They usually have a small slot that can be turned with a flathead screwdriver.

For larger problems, or if there is no local isolation valve, you may need to use the main stop tap. This is often found under the kitchen sink, in a utility room, downstairs toilet, hallway cupboard, garage, cellar or under the stairs.

If you cannot turn off the water, do not start taking fittings apart. A small job can become a big problem very quickly if the water supply cannot be isolated.

Plumbing jobs you can usually do yourself

The following jobs are usually manageable for careful DIYers, provided the issue is visible, small, easy to access and safely isolated.

1. Clearing a slow-draining sink or basin

A slow-draining sink is one of the most common household plumbing problems.

In kitchens, the cause is often food debris, grease or residue building up in the waste pipe. In bathrooms, it is often hair, soap and toothpaste residue.

You can usually start with simple checks:

Remove visible debris from the plughole.

Use a sink strainer to prevent more debris going down.

Try a plunger.

Clean the trap if it is easy to access and safe to remove.

Use a suitable drain unblocker only as directed on the product label.

Do not mix chemical drain cleaners. Do not keep adding products if the drain is badly blocked. If several drains are backing up at once, or the blockage keeps returning, call a professional.

2. Cleaning a sink trap

The trap is the curved or bottle-shaped section of waste pipe under a sink or basin. It holds water to help stop smells coming back up from the drain.

Over time, traps can collect food residue, hair, soap, toothpaste, small objects and general debris. If the trap is easy to reach, you may be able to remove and clean it.

Before you start, put a bucket or bowl underneath, wear gloves and take a photo so you know how everything fits back together. Unscrew carefully, empty and clean the trap, check the washer or seal, then refit it without overtightening.

If the fittings are brittle, stuck, leaking badly or poorly aligned, stop and get advice.

3. Replacing a shower hose

A leaking shower hose is often a simple replacement job.

Most shower hoses unscrew by hand or with gentle help from an adjustable spanner. The leak may be caused by a split hose, damaged connector or worn washer.

Turn the shower off, remove the old hose, check whether the washers are present, then fit the new hose with the correct washers in place. Tighten gently. If it still leaks, the issue may be the washer, fitting, shower handset or outlet connection.

Bringing the old hose or washer into Collins Hardware makes matching the replacement much easier.

4. Replacing hose washers

A missing or worn washer can cause a surprising number of drips.

Common examples include garden hose connectors, outside tap fittings, shower hoses, washing machine hoses and dishwasher hoses.

This is usually a simple job. Turn off the water if needed, remove the fitting, take out the old washer and replace it with one of the same size and type.

Do not assume all washers are the same. A washer that is too small, too large, too hard or badly seated may still leak.

5. Tightening a loose waste fitting

Plastic waste fittings under sinks and basins can sometimes work loose, especially if items are stored under the sink and knock the pipework.

If a waste joint is dripping only when the tap runs, the issue may be a loose nut, misaligned pipe or damaged washer.

Wipe the area dry, run the tap and watch where the water appears. If a plastic nut is slightly loose, you may be able to tighten it gently by hand. Avoid forcing it. Plastic fittings can crack if overtightened.

If the pipework does not line up properly, or the washer looks damaged, it may need to be reseated or replaced.

6. Replacing a simple tap washer

Some dripping taps can be fixed by replacing a washer, O-ring or cartridge, depending on the type of tap.

Traditional taps often use washers. Modern mixer taps may use ceramic cartridges. These are not the same, so the first job is to identify what type of tap you have.

Turn off the water before taking anything apart. Keep all parts in order as you remove them. If you can safely remove the old washer or cartridge, bring it into Collins Hardware so we can help you find the closest match.

If the tap is old, seized, damaged, awkward to access or still dripping after a replacement, call a plumber.

7. Cleaning or replacing a tap aerator

If water from a tap is spluttering, spraying sideways or flowing unevenly, the aerator at the end of the tap may be blocked with grit or limescale.

On many taps, the aerator can be unscrewed, cleaned and refitted. A soak in a suitable limescale remover may help, depending on the material and finish.

Be gentle, especially with decorative tap finishes. Use a cloth to protect the surface if you need to grip the aerator.

If the problem affects every tap in the house, it is unlikely to be just the aerator.

8. Replacing a toilet seat

This is not really a plumbing repair, but it is one of those bathroom jobs many people put off.

Most toilet seats can be replaced with basic tools, although old fixings can be awkward or corroded. The important part is measuring before you buy.

Check the shape of the pan, the distance between fixing holes, and whether you need top-fix or bottom-fix fittings.

If the pan itself is cracked or loose, that is no longer a simple toilet seat job.

9. Fitting a new plug, chain or basin waste accessory

Small sink and basin accessories are usually straightforward.

Replacing a plug, chain, basin strainer or simple waste accessory is often a simple job, provided you match the size and style correctly.

For anything connected to the waste pipe underneath, take photos before removing parts and check that seals and washers are correctly seated when refitting.

10. Resealing around a sink or basin

Old silicone around a sink or basin can become mouldy, cracked or loose. If water is getting behind the fixture, it can damage units, walls and worktops.

Removing old sealant and applying fresh sanitary silicone is a manageable job if you take your time.

The surface needs to be clean, dry and free from old sealant. Use a suitable sanitary sealant, apply it evenly, smooth it properly and allow it to cure as directed.

Do not use sealant to hide an active leak from a pipe or fitting. Sealant is for sealing edges and joints, not fixing leaking plumbing.

11. Fitting pipe clips on visible pipework

If visible pipework is loose, a simple pipe clip may help support it.

This can be useful under sinks, in garages, utility rooms or cupboards where pipework is easy to reach. Measure the pipe first so you choose the right clip size.

Pipe clips can help tidy and support pipework, but they will not solve every noise or movement issue. Knocking pipes, pressure problems or sudden banging sounds may need professional investigation.

12. Lagging exposed pipes

Pipe lagging can help protect exposed pipework in colder areas, such as garages, lofts, sheds, utility spaces and outside walls.

This is usually a simple job. Choose lagging that fits the pipe diameter, cut it neatly, and secure it where needed.

Lagging is especially useful for exposed cold water pipework, but it should not be treated as a cure for poor pipe layout, existing leaks or pipes that have already frozen.

Jobs where you should probably call a plumber

Some jobs may look simple at first, but carry more risk than people expect.

1. Burst pipes

If a pipe bursts, turn off the water if it is safe to do so and call a plumber.

Use buckets, towels and containers to limit damage, but do not start cutting, removing or dismantling pipework unless you know exactly what you are doing.

2. Hidden leaks

Leaks inside walls, floors, ceilings or behind fitted units should be treated seriously.

The visible stain may be a long way from the actual leak. Hidden water can damage plaster, timber, insulation, flooring and electrics.

If you can see damp patches, bubbling paint, staining, sagging plaster, musty smells or water coming through a ceiling, call a professional.

3. Water near electrics

Water and electrics are a serious safety risk.

If water is near sockets, switches, appliances, consumer units, ceiling lights or wiring, do not investigate the plumbing yourself. Turn off the water if safe, avoid touching wet electrical items, and call the right professional.

4. Repeated blockages

A one-off blockage may be simple. A blockage that keeps coming back usually needs proper investigation.

Repeated sink, toilet, shower or drain blockages may point to a deeper issue, poor pipe fall, damaged pipework, a blockage further along the line, or a problem outside the property.

5. Major pipework changes

Moving pipes, altering supply routes, changing bathrooms, adding new appliances or changing hot and cold feeds is not the same as replacing a washer.

These jobs can affect water pressure, flow, drainage, leaks, future access and compliance. They are best handled by a qualified plumber.

6. Hot water cylinder problems

Hot water cylinders and their controls are not a place to guess.

Leaks, pressure issues, unusual noises, discharge pipes running, inconsistent hot water or faults around cylinders should be checked by a professional.

7. Boiler or gas appliance issues

Do not attempt DIY work on boilers, gas appliances or gas pipework.

If you smell gas, open doors and windows if safe, avoid flames and electrical switches, leave the property if necessary, and call the National Gas Emergency Helpline on 0800 111 999.

Boiler and gas work should be handled by a Gas Safe registered engineer.

8. External stop tap or supply pipe problems

The internal stop tap is the one most homeowners need to know about. External stop taps and supply pipe issues can be more complicated.

If the external stop tap is stuck, damaged, shared, hard to access or outside your property boundary, get proper advice before trying to force it.

9. Toilet leaks you cannot identify

Some toilet issues are simple, such as a loose seat or an obvious worn flush seal. Others are less clear.

If the toilet is leaking from the base, the soil pipe, the cistern connection or through the ceiling below, call a plumber. Waste water leaks need proper attention.

10. Anything you cannot isolate

If you cannot turn off the water to the part you want to work on, do not start.

Being able to isolate the water is what makes many small jobs manageable. Without that, even a small fitting can turn into a much bigger problem.

When to stop a DIY plumbing job

Even a simple job can become awkward. Stop and get advice if:

The fitting will not move.

The pipework starts twisting.

Plastic threads begin to crack.

A leak gets worse.

You cannot identify the part.

The replacement part does not match.

You cannot turn the water off.

You find damaged pipework.

The job is near electrics.

You are no longer confident.

Stopping early is better than forcing something and creating a bigger repair.

What to buy for small plumbing jobs

For everyday plumbing maintenance, it is useful to keep a small kit at home.

Useful items include:

A plunger.

PTFE tape.

Mixed washers.

Hose washers.

Jubilee clips.

Pipe clips.

Sanitary silicone.

A small adjustable spanner.

Flathead and crosshead screwdrivers.

Rubber gloves.

A bucket.

Old towels.

A torch.

A tape measure.

A sink strainer.

You do not need everything at once, but these items cover many small jobs around sinks, basins, showers, outside taps, hoses and visible pipework.

Bring the old part with you

If you need a replacement part, the easiest option is to bring the old one into the shop.

Washers, cartridges, hoses, traps, connectors and fittings come in different sizes and styles. Guessing can lead to wasted trips.

If you cannot remove the part safely, take photos instead. A clear photo of the fitting, the pipework around it and the problem area can be enough to help us point you in the right direction.

At Collins Hardware, we can help with practical plumbing bits for small repairs and everyday maintenance. If the job looks like one for a plumber, we will say so.

Quick answer: which plumbing jobs can I do myself?

You can usually do small, visible and low-risk plumbing jobs yourself, such as clearing a slow sink, cleaning a trap, replacing a shower hose, changing a hose washer, resealing around a basin, fitting a pipe clip or replacing a toilet seat.

You should call a professional for burst pipes, hidden leaks, water near electrics, boiler or gas work, hot water cylinder issues, repeated blockages, major pipework changes, sewage leaks, external stop tap problems and anything you cannot safely isolate.

FAQs

What plumbing jobs can I do myself?

Many people can handle simple jobs such as plunging a sink, cleaning a trap, replacing a shower hose, changing a hose washer, fitting a sink strainer, resealing around a basin, replacing a toilet seat or securing visible pipework with pipe clips.

When should I call a plumber?

Call a plumber if the leak is hidden, spreading, near electrics, coming through a ceiling, connected to a toilet waste pipe, affecting hot water systems, or if you cannot turn the water off. You should also call a plumber for repeated blockages, major pipework changes and anything you are not confident handling.

Can I replace a tap washer myself?

You may be able to replace a tap washer yourself if you can turn off the water, identify the tap type and remove the part safely. Some taps use cartridges rather than washers, so it is best to bring the old part into the shop if you are unsure.

Is it safe to use drain unblocker?

Drain unblocker can be useful for minor blockages when used exactly as directed on the label. Do not mix products, do not use multiple chemical cleaners together, and do not keep adding more if the blockage is not clearing. For repeated or severe blockages, call a professional.

Can I fix a leak with sealant?

Sealant is useful around sinks, basins, baths and some sanitary edges, but it should not be used as a permanent repair for leaking pipes or damaged fittings. If a pipe joint is leaking, the cause needs to be found and fixed properly.

Can I do boiler plumbing myself?

No. Do not attempt DIY work on boilers, gas appliances or gas pipework. Boiler and gas work should be carried out by a Gas Safe registered engineer.

What should I do if I smell gas?

If you smell gas, open doors and windows if safe, avoid flames, do not smoke, do not use electrical switches, leave the property if needed, and call the National Gas Emergency Helpline on 0800 111 999.

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