Standing in front of a shelf of screws can be surprisingly confusing. They may all look similar at first glance, but the right screw can make a job stronger, neater and much less frustrating. The wrong one can split timber, fail to grip, rust outside, damage plasterboard or simply not hold the weight you need it to.
This guide is here to make choosing screws a little easier. Whether you are putting up a shelf, repairing a gate, fixing a hinge, hanging a picture, replacing a socket screw or tackling a small DIY job around the home, there are a few simple things to check before you buy.
At Collins Hardware in Pangbourne, we help customers with this sort of thing all the time. Often, the easiest starting point is to bring in the old screw, hinge, bracket or fitting you are replacing. Even if you do not know the name, size or type, we can usually help you work out what you need.
The quick answer: how do I choose the right screw?
To choose the right screw, think about five things:
- What material are you fixing into? Wood, masonry, plasterboard, metal and plastic all need different types of screw or fixing.
- What are you fixing to it? A picture hook, shelf bracket, hinge, handle, gate latch or curtain pole will all place different demands on the screw.
- How much weight does it need to hold? Light decorative jobs need less strength than shelves, gates, cabinets and structural fixings.
- Will it be used indoors or outdoors? Outdoor screws should be suitable for moisture and weather exposure.
- What tool will you use to fit it? The screw head and drive type need to match your screwdriver bit or drill bit.
You do not need to know every technical detail before you visit the shop. If you can explain the job, show us the old part or bring a photo, that is usually enough to get started.
What are screws mainly used for?
Screws are used to hold two or more pieces of material together. Around the home, that might mean:
- Fixing hinges to a door or gate.
- Attaching a handle, latch, bolt or catch.
- Joining pieces of timber.
- Fixing plasterboard to timber or metal studs.
- Putting up shelves, curtain poles, blinds or mirrors.
- Securing brackets, hooks or small fittings.
- Repairing furniture, cupboards, sheds or garden structures.
- Fixing signs, numbers or accessories to walls.
They are used by tradespeople, keen DIYers and people who simply want to fix something that has worked loose. The key is matching the screw to the job.
How do screws work?
A screw works by turning rotational force into forward force. When you turn the screw head with a screwdriver or drill, the spiral thread bites into the material and pulls the screw in. This thread is what gives the screw its grip.
A typical screw has four main parts:
- The head, which is the top part of the screw. This is where the screwdriver or drill bit fits.
- The shank, which is the main body of the screw.
- The thread, which is the spiral ridge that grips the material.
- The point, which is the end that enters the material first.
Some screws are designed to cut into wood. Some are designed for plasterboard. Some work with wall plugs. Some are made for metal, masonry or outdoor use. That is why it is worth pausing before picking the first screw that looks roughly the right size.
The main things to check before buying screws
1. What material are you fixing into?
This is usually the most important question.
- For wood, you will often use woodscrews, timber screws, chipboard screws or decking screws, depending on the job.
- For masonry, brick, concrete or stone, you may need masonry screws or suitable wall plugs with screws.
- For plasterboard, you need to be careful because plasterboard alone may not hold much weight. You may need plasterboard fixings, cavity fixings or to find a timber stud behind the board.
- For metal, you may need self-tapping or self-drilling screws.
- For plastic or uPVC, specialist frame or self-tapping screws may be more suitable.
If you are not sure what the wall or surface is made from, bring a photo or describe the property and the job. Around Pangbourne, we see a mix of older homes, newer properties, garden buildings and outbuildings, so wall types and fixing needs can vary quite a bit.
2. How long should the screw be?
A screw should be long enough to grip securely, but not so long that it comes through the other side or damages something behind the surface.
As a simple rule, when fixing one piece of timber to another, the screw should pass through the first piece and get a good grip into the second. For wall fixings, the screw length needs to suit the wall plug or fixing being used.
Too short, and the screw may pull out.
Too long, and it may poke through, hit pipework, damage wiring or split the material.
If you are replacing an existing screw, bring the old one in. Matching the length and diameter is often the quickest route to the right replacement.
3. How thick should the screw be?
The thickness of a screw is often called its gauge or diameter.
A thicker screw is generally stronger, but it is not always better. If the screw is too thick for the material, it can split timber, damage a fitting or be difficult to drive in. If it is too thin, it may not hold properly.
For lighter jobs such as small brackets, picture hooks or decorative fittings, a smaller screw may be enough. For gates, shelves, hinges, heavier brackets or outdoor fixings, you will usually need something stronger.
4. Does the screw need to be used outdoors?
Outdoor screws need to cope with moisture, temperature changes and weather exposure.
For gates, sheds, fences, decking, garden furniture and exterior fittings, look for screws that are suitable for outdoor use. Galvanised, coated or stainless steel screws are often chosen because they offer better protection against corrosion.
This matters in practical terms. If you use the wrong screw outside, it may rust, stain the timber, become difficult to remove later or lose strength over time.
5. What finish do you want?
Sometimes the screw will be hidden. Sometimes it will be visible.
If you are fitting hinges, door furniture, handles, brassware or decorative ironmongery, the colour and finish of the screw may matter. Brass screws, black screws, silver screws and other finishes can help the fixing blend in with the fitting.
For visible ironmongery, the screw is not just functional. It is part of the finished look.
Common screw drive types explained
The drive type is the shape in the top of the screw head. Your screwdriver or drill bit needs to match it.
Slotted screws
Slotted screws have one straight groove across the head. They are common on older fittings and some traditional ironmongery. They can look neat, but they are not always the easiest to drive with a power tool because the screwdriver can slip out of the slot.
Phillips screws
Phillips screws have a cross-shaped recess. They are common, but they can be confused with Pozidriv screws. Using the wrong bit can damage the screw head.
Pozidriv screws
Pozidriv, often marked as PZ, are very common for modern DIY and trade screws. They look similar to Phillips but have additional smaller lines between the main cross. They usually give better grip and reduce slipping when used with the correct PZ bit.
Torx screws
Torx screws have a star-shaped recess. They provide very good grip and are popular for jobs where you need a strong, secure drive. They are often useful for timber, decking and heavier-duty applications.
Hex and socket screws
Some screws and bolts use a hex head or socket head and are fitted with a spanner, socket, Allen key or hex bit. These are common for heavier fixings, furniture, machinery, gates and some ironmongery.
The main point is simple: match the bit to the screw. If the bit is wrong, you can round off or strip the screw head, making the job much harder than it needs to be.
Common screw head types explained
The head type affects how the screw sits once fitted.
Countersunk head screws
Countersunk screws are designed to sit flush with, or just below, the surface. They are useful where you want a neat finish, especially in timber, hinges and ironmongery.
Raised head screws
Raised head screws sit slightly proud of the surface. They can be used where the head is visible and part of the appearance of the fitting.
Round, dome or pan head screws
These screws sit above the surface. They are useful where you do not want the screw to sink into the material, or where a broader head gives a better hold.
Bugle head screws
Bugle head screws are often used for plasterboard. The shape helps the screw sit correctly without tearing the board surface when used properly.
Washered or flanged screws
Some screws have a built-in washer or wider head. These can spread the load and are often used on roofing sheets, metal sheets and some outdoor fixings.
Do I need a pilot hole?
A pilot hole is a smaller hole drilled before the screw goes in.
You may need a pilot hole when:
- Working close to the edge of timber.
- Using hardwood.
- Using a larger screw.
- Fitting brass screws, which can be softer than steel.
- Fixing into materials that may split.
- Trying to get a very neat finish.
Some modern screws are designed to reduce or avoid the need for pre-drilling, especially in softwood. Even so, a pilot hole can make a job cleaner and easier, particularly if you are working with delicate timber, old wood or visible ironmongery.
A useful trick with brass screws is to drive a steel screw of the same size into the pilot hole first, then remove it and fit the brass screw. This reduces the risk of damaging the softer brass head.
Types of screws for common DIY jobs
Woodscrews
Woodscrews are used for fixing into wood, including softwood, hardwood, MDF and chipboard. They are one of the most common types of screw for everyday jobs.
Use them for:
- Timber repairs.
- Cupboards and shelving.
- Small brackets.
- Furniture repairs.
- Door and frame jobs.
- General household DIY.
For hardwood, a pilot hole is often wise. For softwood, many screws will drive in more easily, although a pilot hole can still help near edges.
Timber screws
Timber screws are usually used for heavier timber jobs. They often have a coarse thread, good grip and a strong drive head.
Use them for:
- Larger timber repairs.
- Garden timber.
- Outdoor structures.
- Heavy-duty brackets.
- Sheds, gates and timber frames.
If the job is outdoors, make sure the screw is suitable for exterior use.
Decking screws
Decking screws are designed for fixing deck boards to joists. They are made to cope with outdoor conditions and movement in the timber.
Use them for:
- Decking boards.
- Outdoor timber projects.
- Some garden repairs.
They often have features that help reduce splitting and improve grip. If you are repairing decking, try to match the existing screw type where possible.
Plasterboard screws
Plasterboard screws are used for fixing plasterboard to timber or metal studwork. They are not the same as general wall fixings for hanging heavy objects on plasterboard.
Use them for:
- Fixing plasterboard sheets.
- Dry lining work.
- Stud wall projects.
If you are hanging shelves, mirrors, cabinets or heavy items on plasterboard, you may need plasterboard fixings rather than simple plasterboard screws.
Masonry screws and screws for wall plugs
For brick, stone, block or concrete, you often need a wall plug and screw. The plug expands inside the drilled hole and gives the screw something to grip.
Use them for:
- Shelves.
- Curtain poles.
- Wall brackets.
- Mirrors.
- Hooks.
- House numbers.
Some masonry screws can fix directly into masonry without a plug, but they still need the correct drilled hole and should be chosen carefully for the load.
Self-tapping screws
Self-tapping screws create their own thread as they are driven in. They are often used in softer materials, plastics and thin metal, depending on the screw.
Use them for:
- Sheet materials.
- Plastic fittings.
- Light metalwork.
- Some repair jobs.
They usually still need the right size pilot hole.
Self-drilling screws
Self-drilling screws have a drill-like point that helps them drill and fasten in one action. They are often used for fixing metal to metal.
Use them for:
- Sheet metal.
- Light steel.
- Some roofing or cladding jobs.
They are useful, but only when matched properly to the thickness and type of material.
Hinge screws
Hinge screws are used for fitting hinges neatly and securely. They are often chosen to match the hinge finish.
Use them for:
- Internal door hinges.
- Cabinet hinges.
- Cupboard doors.
- Gate hinges.
- Decorative ironmongery.
If a hinge has worked loose, it may not be enough to simply put the same screw back in. The hole may be worn. You may need a slightly longer screw, a repair to the timber or a better fixing method.
Electrical socket screws
Electrical socket screws are used for fixing faceplates, sockets and switches to back boxes. They are usually a specific machine screw size, rather than a woodscrew.
Use them for:
- Socket faceplates.
- Light switches.
- Blanking plates.
- Electrical accessories.
Always take care with electrical work. If you are unsure, use a qualified electrician.
Security screws
Security screws are designed to be difficult to remove without the correct tool. They are sometimes used where tampering is a concern.
Use them for:
- Outdoor signs.
- Public-facing fittings.
- Security plates.
- Some gate or shed hardware.
Some security screws are designed to be removable with the right bit. Others are one-way and are very difficult to remove once fitted, so choose carefully.
Screws, nails or bolts: which one do you need?
For many jobs, screws are the best choice because they grip well and can usually be removed later.
Nails are quick and useful for some timber jobs, especially where speed matters or the fixing does not need to be removed easily.
Bolts are stronger for heavy-duty fixing, especially where two materials are clamped together with a nut and washer.
As a simple guide:
- Use screws for most household repairs, hinges, brackets, shelves, ironmongery and timber jobs.
- Use nails for lighter timber work, simple repairs and jobs where a quick fixing is enough.
- Use bolts where strength matters and you can access both sides of the material.
- Use wall plugs or specialist fixings when fixing into masonry, plasterboard or hollow walls.
Choosing screws for popular household jobs
Putting up a shelf
Check the wall type first. A shelf fixed into solid brick or block will need suitable wall plugs and screws. A shelf fixed to plasterboard may need specialist plasterboard fixings, or ideally fixing into studs where possible.
The heavier the shelf and what you plan to put on it, the more important the fixing becomes.
Hanging a picture or mirror
A light picture may only need a simple picture hook or small wall fixing. A heavy mirror needs much more care. You need to know the wall type, the weight of the mirror and the type of hanging bracket.
For heavier mirrors, do not guess. Ask for advice before drilling.
Fixing a loose door handle
A loose handle may be caused by worn screws, a loose spindle, a tired latch or worn holes in the door. Sometimes you need replacement screws. Sometimes the handle set needs adjusting or replacing.
Bring the handle, screws or a photo into Collins Hardware and we can help you identify what is going on.
Repairing a gate
Gate repairs usually need outdoor-rated screws or bolts. Gates move, swell, drop and take a lot of strain from wind and regular use, so the fixings need to be strong and weather suitable.
For hinges, latches, bolts and catches, it is worth checking both the ironmongery and the timber before replacing the screws.
Replacing a hinge
When replacing hinges, check the hinge size, screw hole positions, screw length, finish and whether the hinge is for an internal door, cupboard, shed or gate.
For visible hinges, choose screws that look right as well as perform properly.
Fixing into plasterboard
Plasterboard is one of the most common causes of fixing problems. A normal screw straight into plasterboard will not hold much weight.
For light items, a suitable plasterboard fixing may be enough. For heavier shelves, cabinets or mirrors, you may need to fix into studs or use stronger cavity fixings.
What if the old screw is rusty, damaged or stuck?
Old screws can be awkward, especially on outdoor ironmongery, sheds, gates and older fittings.
Before forcing it, try the following:
- Make sure you are using the correct screwdriver bit.
- Press firmly while turning to avoid slipping.
- Use a little penetrating oil if the screw is rusty.
- Give the screw time to loosen before trying again.
- Avoid rounding off the head.
If the head is already damaged, you may need a screw extractor, pliers, a new slot carefully cut into the head or another removal method. Take care when using heat or force, especially near painted surfaces, timber, glass, wiring or anything flammable.
If you are replacing old ironmongery, it is often worth bringing the old screw or fitting into the shop so we can help match the size and finish.
Safety when using screws and fixings
Even small DIY jobs can create dust, sharp edges and flying debris.
For drilling and screwdriving, it is sensible to use:
- Safety glasses when drilling masonry, metal or overhead.
- Gloves when handling sharp metal, timber or old fixings.
- A dust mask when drilling dusty surfaces.
- The right drill bit for the material.
- A cable and pipe detector before drilling into walls.
- Particular care around sockets, switches, bathrooms, kitchens and external walls.
If a job involves electrics, plumbing, structural fixings or heavy loads above head height, it may be better to ask a qualified tradesperson.
What should you bring into Collins Hardware?
You do not need to know the technical name for everything. The most useful things to bring are:
- The old screw.
- The hinge, handle, latch, bracket or fitting.
- A photo of the job.
- The approximate wall or material type.
- The weight of the item you are fixing.
- The size of the timber, shelf or fitting.
- A note of whether it is indoors or outdoors.
This is especially useful for ironmongery and fasteners because small differences matter. A screw that is a little too short, too wide, too soft or the wrong finish can cause problems later.
Frequently asked questions about screws
What screws do I need for wood?
For most ordinary wood jobs, use woodscrews. For heavier timber or outdoor jobs, use timber screws or exterior-rated screws. For hardwood, it is often best to drill a pilot hole first.
What screws do I need for plasterboard?
It depends on the job. Plasterboard screws are used to fix plasterboard sheets to studs. If you are hanging something on plasterboard, you usually need plasterboard fixings or cavity fixings, not just ordinary screws.
What screws do I need for brick?
For brick, you will usually need to drill a hole, insert a wall plug and then use a suitable screw. Some masonry screws can fix directly into masonry, but they still need the correct drill hole and should be chosen for the load.
Can I use indoor screws outside?
It is better not to. Indoor screws may rust or fail more quickly outdoors. For gates, sheds, fences, decking and garden repairs, choose screws suitable for exterior use.
What is the difference between Phillips and Pozidriv?
Both have a cross-shaped recess, but Pozidriv screws have extra smaller lines between the main cross. Pozidriv screws are very common in modern DIY. Use the correct bit, usually marked PH for Phillips or PZ for Pozidriv.
What does screw gauge mean?
Screw gauge refers to the thickness or diameter of the screw. A larger gauge means a thicker screw. The right gauge depends on the material, the load and the size of the fitting.
Should I drill a pilot hole?
A pilot hole is a good idea when using larger screws, working near the edge of timber, fixing into hardwood or fitting visible ironmongery where you want a clean result.
Why does my screw keep spinning and not tightening?
The hole may be worn, the screw may be too small, the material may be damaged or the wall plug may not be gripping. You may need a larger fixing, a repair to the hole or a different type of plug or screw.
Why has the screw head stripped?
This usually happens when the wrong screwdriver bit is used, the bit slips, the screw is poor quality, too much force is applied or the screw is being driven into material that is too hard without a pilot hole.
Can I replace a screw with a longer one?
Sometimes, yes. A longer screw can help if the original hole is worn or the fixing needs more grip. But check what is behind the surface first, especially in walls, doors and thin timber.
Need help choosing screws in Pangbourne?
If you are not sure which screw, plug, hinge screw, wall fixing or fastener you need, pop into Collins Hardware in Pangbourne. Bring the old part if you have it, or show us a photo of the job.
We can help you narrow it down by material, size, finish, strength and whether the fixing is for indoor or outdoor use. It is often much quicker than guessing, buying the wrong packet and having to start again.
From small household repairs to garden gates, shelves, handles, hinges and everyday DIY jobs, the right fixing makes all the difference.